The White Cliffs of Dover

My mother warned me about Dover. While acknowledging the cliffs' historical significance and iconic status, she added, "But the city itself is really boring." Thanks for your honesty, Mom, and yes- you were mostly right. But I'm still happy I made the visit. Perhaps the high street left much to be desired, and perhaps all restaurants closed at 3 pm, leaving my friend and I wandering the sidewalks deliriously, cursing each "closed" sign and forcing us to frantically order Indian takeout for home delivery while on the train back. But the sun shone that day, the hills were green, and the cliffs gave off a cool, pale radiance that made me glad we'd come.
See that door up there? I think it might have been part of the War Tunnels, which we did not explore. (Not enough time or money, although I felt a bit wistful about the omission.) It seemed mystical to me, rather than historical, however; as if a race of hill-dwarfs lived there, hidden from the human world. 

okay, the hills don't look so green here. but most parts were. 

There were small, mostly dingy houses pressed right up against the base of the cliffs, lining the tiny, cobbled street. This cat watched us pass by, serenely bored, remaining motionless but for the twitch of his tail even as we approached to stare him down. 

For a mere 20 p, we could attempt to see all the way across the English Channel. It sort of worked. It was better to just look with our eyes, watching the lumbering barges coming in so slowly it seemed as if they weren't moving at all, until they were suddenly docking. 

I wish this place were a Bed and Breakfast; I wouldn't necessarily want to live there forever, although it is very nice, if a bit isolated. But it is perched right on top of the green hills I was telling you about, with a clear view of the Channel, not 40 yards away, with the looming silhouette of Dover Castle visible on the woodsy mountaintop. It looked warm and homely, a good place to retreat for a day or two. There was some kind of symbol above the entrance- can you see it? It looked a bit like a rune of some sort, or a secret marking. I wish I understood it. 

The town itself, however, is a bit of a ghost town in places. In other places, it's a moderately busy, uninspired row of cheap stores and kebab shops, overrun by schoolchildren in uniforms, shouting and pushing. But look to the cliffs, and all will be well.